We arrived in Gatwick on 24 August after an excellent West Jet flight, our flight attendant, Geraldine, keeping her sense of humour throughout, even though some people still think wearing a mask means having it tucked under their chins. Liz was waiting at arrivals and soon had us delivered safe, sound and jet lagged in Canterbury.
Our pilgrims’ credentials received their first stamps, we wandered through the cathedral, wandered along the river, enjoyed dinner by that river and tumbled into bed ready for our upcoming walk.
The walk from Canterbury to Dover went well. We stayed alive crossing roads - the English don’t really seem to like stopping for pedestrians in crosswalks. Catching the ferry to Calais was chaotic - P&O ferries are accepting foot passengers again but seem to be doing everything in their power to dissuade us from travelling with them. Once on the ferry it was smooth sailing. We walked from the port into town because that was the simplest option.
Dinner in Calais - it was a three hour affair!
And now we have walked 11.5 k from Calais to Guines. That was a disappointing little town. We couldn’t check into our odd accommodation until 6pm so spent the afternoon sleeping in the park. Next day Guines to Tournehem-sur-la-Hem - 24.7 k. Stayed at a private home and enjoyed a crazy fun dinner with a German pilgrim, Gaby, who speaks German and English and a Swiss couple. He speaks German and French. His wife speaks only French as does our host. Pat’s French is passable as is my German. Some how the conversation was animated all evening.
From Tournehem we walked a short morning to Wisques - 19.8 k. There we stayed in the beautiful guesthouse of Abbey Norte Dame and spent the afternoon sitting in the garden. That was our last easy day.
The next day’s walk to Auchy-au-Bois was 29.9 k but the beautiful farm house where we stayed more than made up for the long day. Again, a private home that offers pilgim's accommodation.
Our next stop was Bruay-la-Buissiere. After a long 22.1 k walk we were met by a locked hotel. A phone call got us admitted but it was a night best forgotten. We don’t recommend anyone staying at Le Cottage. Don’t bother reading the ridiculous blurb about their fancy restaurant either - it’s closed.
Last night we stayed in Arras - a stunning city. Our hotel was in the heart of the historic centre so we celebrated a 23.8 k day with a really good meal at one of the outdoor restaurants. Thousands of people were sitting at tables in the square - all vibrant and fabulous.
Today we enjoyed an easy 23 k walk to Bapaume where we’ve just enjoyed another excellent meal. Inside this evening as it is raining! Oh thank goodness.
So far every day has been tough due to temperatures in the high 20s to low 30s and humidity making it feel much warmer. The countryside is parched. People’s gardens are scorched. Crops are wilted.
This part of France is very rural. We’ve spent every day since leaving Calais walking past fields and watching farmers harvesting, plowing and fertilizing. It’s quite flat, the views stretch to distant horizons. There’s hundreds of huge wind turbines - the blades slowly spinning in the ever-present breeze.
We are pretty exhausted at the end of each day. Having now walked 195.8 k - our feet and legs are getting used to pounding pavement - we did not expect so much pavement. Almost every track and trail here seems to be paved. Not everywhere has internet so blogs might be quite sporadic. But we are well and enjoying the journey. Everyday we meet wonderful people. Today for instance one of Pat’s expensive new Black Diamond trekking poles wouldn’t lock but a farm machinery mechanic fixed it. Later we we snoozing in a church yard and a woman brought us a bottle of water. These are the reasons we love walking - meeting people. Today we also met Shawn, a man who is walking from Egypt home to England. He’s been on the road for six months!
Until our next post - Cheers from Bapaume France on the road to Rome!
I love it, keep the reports coming, Ian