Difficult Decision

Walking solo since Pat returned to Canada last week has had its challenges, the least of which is walking solo.

The longest - most tedious- hours have been those spent once the walk, laundry and shower are done and there’s still three or more hours to wait for dinner. The Italians have a thing about not eating before 7:30. Later is better. I’m always the first one in the door of every restaurant I’ve been to.

I had hoped to meet other pilgrims over the last few days, but that hasn’t happened. At the pilgrim hostel in Orio Litta, the last person the sign in had gone through three days before me, there was no one else there the night I stayed and no one expected for a couple more nights. So at the moment my solo journey is me and the road.

The flat plane of the Po Valley has offered stultifying boredom. Feel free to remind me of this complaint when, in a few days, I’m moaning about too much upping and downing! Some pilgrims are hard to please.

The flatness has offered little physical challenge beyond thumping along paved dykes and roads and trying not to go crazy with the monotony of endless ploughed fields, numerous abandoned farms, garbage in the ditches and depressing, rundown villages … with few exceptions. Orio Litta, for one, is a lovely village with vibrant bar. When I left at 7:30 a couple of mornings ago there were already three cheerful people out sweeping the street and chatting up a storm.

This seems to be a theme - villages with open cafe/bars are generally more tidy and have lots of friendly people about. I think maybe community spirit and pride is nourished by the socializing.

I’m now in Fidenza - did a bit of fast-forwarding on the train to knock off a few kilometres. The plain ends soon as the approach to the Apennines begins. I’ve been looking forward to a change of scenery and crossing this range …. But.

Parts of the upcoming route are a bit rugged and remote. The weather forecast indicates three more days before rain. Rain here could be snow at elevation. I’m alone.

I had a friend - Sylvia - she was an experienced and supremely capable mountain hiker. A few years ago she disappeared while on a solo hike in mountains no more remote or high than these.

So while I walked the flat, boring, hot pavement today, I came to the difficult decision - I’m skipping the lovey scenic five-day journey from here to Pontremoli on the far side of the pass.

Pat walked this section when she did the VF a few years ago and she told me there were several areas where she felt vulnerable due to the terrain and Italian hunters. I’m not into exposing myself to danger - perceived or real - for bragging rights.

Another minor issue is that two of the potential night stops haven’t yet answered my emails about if they are still open. Frustrating as that lack of response has been, it’s now a mute point.

Another time - maybe I’ll walk over this range - but not on this journey.

Now a few pictures from the past couple of days. Other comments and photos are on the Two Women Walking Facebook and Instagram feeds.